South America (August 8th, 2002)

Inca Trail Marathon: This high altitude race in the Andes Mountains of South America covers 27.5 miles (44km) through cloud forests and over high mountain passes on the ancient highway of the Incas. Athletes ran to an altitude of 14,000 feet before descending into the legendary lost city in the clouds - Machu Picchu - one of the world's most spectacular ruins. Richard won the event in 5 hours 50 minutes on a course that normally takes three full days to trek.
The Inca Trail Marathon
By Richard Donovan

The Inca Trail Marathon to Machu Picchu, which took place on August 8th, is a high altitude race in the Andes Mountains of Peru. The race distance of 27.5 miles barely qualifies as an ultramarathon (a distance longer than 26.2 miles), but the terrain, altitude and ascent make the event extremely challenging. Given the tough conditions, and the importance of the Incas in South American history, this race seemed the most fitting to fulfil the South American leg of my ultramarathons on each of the seven continents. Most hikers take an average of at least three full days to complete the route.

Having spent some days acclimatising at an altitude of about 11,000 feet, we were ready to head to the starting line for the event. We set up camp at 8,600 feet beyond an archaeological site called Llactapata and we prepared for a race starting time of 5.30am. We were furnished with maps of the route and advised of the location of the two aid stations that would be on the trail. Among the starters were very experienced U.S. ultra runners and some good marathoners.

Once the race began, I decided to pin my colours to the mast, so to speak. Unlike the tactics employed in my other races to date, I decided to run hard from the outset in the hope of establishing an early lead and creating the possibility of breaking 6 hours for the Inca Trail. However, I quickly began to realise why this event had a formidable reputation. Over the first half of the course lay three mountain passes of between 12,000 and 14,000 feet and some very steep ascent before each of them.

En route to the first pass at 13,779 feet, known as "Pass of the Dead Woman", I traversed over a spectacular gorge and viewed magnificent snow-capped mountains. Running through mossy woods and thick forest before emerging above tree level, this section of the trail was extremely challenging. In the five miles immediately preceding the first pass, the ascent was almost 1,000 feet per mile. The sheer altitude, coupled with the uneven and steep steps that characterise the Inca Trail, reduced breathing to short, loud gasps and wheezing. On many occasions, my hands were clasped fast to my thighs as I literally attempted to pull my legs up over the steps.

I looked behind occasionally, only to see the highly experienced US athlete, David Drach, keeping me within striking distance. Despite being ill the day before the race, he had the appearance of a man who was running within his comfort zone and I certainly was not. I scrambled onward, thinking of him as the cop in Terminator 2, with his steady, relaxed running motion and total concentration. On reaching the top of the pass, I barrelled downhill as fast as possible before beginning the ascent to the next pass at 13,100 feet. Glaciated peaks littered the horizon, but the constant pressure to move forward prevented me from stopping for long to admire the view!

Shortness of breath returned as every ounce of my energy was used to reach the top of the second pass. Glances over my shoulder revealed that none of the other competitors were within immediate sight and I once again descended with pace down the rocky slopes, hoping that my ankle wouldn't twist and put me out of the race. It required absolute concentration. Yet, it was both humbling and astonishing to see local porters keep pace at times, clad in old pairs of sandals and carrying heavy loads.

After reaching the top of the second pass, I plunged downward once more. Along the trail, now consisting of even levelled stone-pavements, I entered dense groves and Inca tunnels before encountering a magnificent stone staircase leading to the ruins of Phuyupatamarca or "town in the clouds". Upon summitting the third pass, I picked up pace again, being nevertheless careful not to lose my balance and tumble into the deep gorge of the Urubamba river. Passing down a series of hundreds of steps, which took their toll on my legs, and running by amazing ceremonial Inca baths, I descended into cloud forest. Along this section of the course, there was a notable increase in temperature that was reflected in the abundance of varieties of exotic plants, orchids and flowers alongside the trail.

Upon reaching the ruins of Winay Wayna, the trail became more conducive to good running and the distance remaining to the finish was only five or six miles. The constant feeling of heavy legs was alleviated until the short clamber up the steps to Intipunka or "gateway of the sun" at 8,860 feet. Suddenly, the full grandeur of Machu Picchu, the lost city of the Incas and one of the world's most spectacular ruins, came into view. It was an absolutely stunning sight and a most welcome descent into the ruins beckoned. After a leg-wearying 5 hours and 50 minutes, I had reached the finish line in first place. David Drach would finish 11 minutes behind, just failing to break the six-hour barrier for the course. Accomplishment of the day, however, fell to his wife Nancy Drach, a top international female ultra distance runner. In the USA, she has run 50 miles in an amazing time of 6 hours and 38 minutes and in Peru she set a new Inca Trail record for women of 6 hours and 40 minutes. Gordon Smith, also of the USA, took third place in the men's division.